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Against The Wind

Bicycling as a punctuation for life's turning points.

February 2006 - Posts

  • Against the Wind, Day 6: A bike trip across America

    Day 6, 6/10/77

     

    The next morning, our legs were still sore, but not like yesterday.  We did the stretch Inanna taught me: stand erect, lean on a tree, lift a foot up behind you, grasp the instep with the free hand, and pull the foot up to your butt.  Then push the knee back behind you, and feel the stretch in the quadricep muscle.  Hold it while it hurts and slowly releases.  After about ten seconds, switch to the other leg.

     

    We now rode through rolling countryside with pretty farms and a few small towns.  In Whitehall we met a farmer who talked about his apples and hay and livestock.  He was experiencing a drought, and he described the hard work of a farmer, but he seemed to appreciate his lot.

     

    We then came to the bottom of the first real mountain.  Afton Mountain, on the Blue Ridge Mountains, would have to be climbed to the top at Rockfish Gap.  We stopped at the foot of the mountain to have lunch.  We were afraid.

     


    A friendly, middle aged woman stopped her car and walked up.  She introduced herself as June Curry, “the cookie lady.”  She said to look for her house halfway up the mountain, because she would be glad to give us refreshments.  She drove off, up the mountain, passing behind a row of trees.

     

    So, up we went.  At first it was not so tough, but soon it was a strain to ride in the lowest gear.  Inanna had to walk, to push the bike, so I did the same.  When the grade reduced, we would try to ride.   But by the time we got to June Curry’s house, we had walked half the way, and were very tired.

     

    June’s house was marked by a red reflective triangle, and loaded with photos of bikers who had stayed with her or refreshed with her on the Bikecentenial the year before, 1976.  She gave us cookies and cool aid, but the best part was that we could just rest.  We ate too many cookies, however, and had to return to the road at a disadvantage.  It is hard enough to get a bike going up a hill from a stop, without having to do it with an overfilled stomach and thirty extra pounds strapped to the bike.  Almost immediately, Inanna lost her balance and fell off her bike, scraping her ankle and bleeding a little.

     

    The second half of the climb was steeper than the first part.  We walked and pumped to the top, where we had to rest again.  We planned to walk around the restaurants and motels and find groceries for dinner.  Unfortunately, there was no grocery store.  We were in trouble again.

     

    After leaving a marker in the restroom of the Howard Johnson’s for *** (a decal from the Outreach Free Clinic where we’d worked—Inanna as a volunteer), we bravely headed down the Blue Ridge Parkway.  This parkway, along with Skyline Drive, is one of the most beautiful places in America.  Begun in the 1930s, it was mostly completed in the 1950s.  It snakes along the ridges of the Blue Ridge Mountains through Shenandoah National Park to the North Carolina Line.  To the right, as we rode along, was the Shenandoah Valley.  The beautiful farmland was laid out in tidy squares, and trees marked the winding Shenandoah river.  On the far side of the valley we could see the mountains which led to West Virginia.  And to our left was the Piedmont section of Virginia, foothills rolling toward the sea.

      

    As evening approached, we came to Humpback Rocks.  There were several cars still in the lot, and we could see some rustic buildings behind the trees.  We coasted up to meet another biker, standing beside his bicycle eating a cracker.

     

    His name was Gordon and he was anxious to talk.  He had cycled up from Charlottesville where he was an orderly at the hospital there.  He added proudly that he had swiped a box of Figurines from his employer, but that was all he had to eat.  He said he’d give anything for a cup of coffee.  Our eyes lit up, and a trade was engineered: a handful of Figurines for two cups of our instant coffee.  The Figurines were not delicious, but they had adequate food value for dinner and breakfast.  It was nice to sit and chat with Gordon, too, a young man without cares, not a good planner, but with strong legs and no fear.  He was on his way somewhere two days to the south, but clearly he wasn’t in a hurry to get there, or he would have hitchhiked or ridden his bike on U.S. Route 29, a good road in the Piedmont with less hills and much more direct.  He had almost nothing strapped to his bike, besides his Figurines.  Before I had a chance to ask him how he would sleep tonight, he swung his leg over his bike and pedaled out of the parking lot.

     


    By this time, all the cars had left the lot and the sign said the park was closed.  But nobody was there, and we began to look to a private place to put up the tent.  We walked through the park, discovering that this was a display showing how the first settlers of the Shenandoah Mountains lived.  There was a cabin, farm buildings, implements.  The cabin was locked, but we found the perfect place to stay.  A small building, labeled as a chicken coop, had a clean dirt floor and a six-foot ceiling.  It was perfect, and we put up the tent inside it in case it rained.  We didn’t know how rain-proof the chicken coop was, and we were just more secure inside that tent at night.

  • Against the Wind: Day 5, a bike trip across America

    Day 5, 6/9/77, in Charlottesville

     

    The next day, we were too sore to ride.  Our thighs were knotted with pain, even worse than the night before.  All we could do was slowly walk around the town, gingerly stretching our legs.

     

    At a laundromat, we sat together, not talking.  I had a headache.  Inanna was even more dejected because a phone call to our house elicited a “not in service” recording.  This meant that the summer tenants were not yet there and cats had not yet been fed.  Plus, the papers indicated a thunderstorm in Virginia Beach had delivered winds up to 98 miles per hour.  Was there damage to the house?

     

    And my depression was a reflection of hers.  We walked down a stony path to a ball field, watched the players, walked quietly back to the house.  There was nothing to do but prepare for the next day so we brought back the clean clothes, began to repack the panniers, and Inanna asked: Do we really need all this stuff?

     

    This was the signal that she was back, and my depression lifted as we filled two grocery bags full of unneeded items.  We prepared a box to be mailed home.  We had reduced our load by about six or seven pounds.  That would help!

  • Against the Wind: Day 4, a bike trip across America

    Day 4: 6/8/77

     

    We woke up that morning in right field and brushed ice off the tent.  That was surprising, because you don’t expect ice in Virginia in June.  However, it heated up quickly that day and by midmorning we were hot and sweaty.

     

    Being out on your own in the country makes you appreciate the small things—like showers, even toilets.  We stopped that morning at a deserted, run-down shed beside the road and defecated through a broken chair onto the dirt floor.  There would be many more extemporized “conveniences,” we knew, down the road. 

     

    We were now on our way to Charlottesville, climbing our first hills, and feeling it in our legs for the first time.  We had friends there who said we could stay with them to rest, and we were looking forward to our first showers. 

     

    We crossed Interstate 64 at Ferncliff and stopped 5 miles later at a town called Kent’s Store, where we met a crippled man, legless in a wheelchair.  He was a bluegrass singer, he said, and we chatted for a few minutes.  But his disability was a grotesque one, and we were relieved to be back on the road when we left him.  Twelve miles later we tried to buy coffee at a country store, in Cunningham.  They didn’t have any, but the nice lady there heated up water for us so we could drink some of our instant coffee.  As we sat in the shade and enjoyed it, we shared a fantasy that one day we would work in a little store like that one and live there. It was a nice fantasy, and underscored our essential aimlessness: We knew where we were going this summer, and approximately by what route, but what about the long range?  Would we run a general store in the country?  Inanna had been a school teacher and wanted to be a school counselor; I had managed a drug abuse clinic.  Would we work in human services?  Where would we live?  Would we even be together, a few months down the road?

     


    We cycled up a steep hill, past the turn to Monticello, Jefferson’s home, and into Charlottesville.  This is one of the prettiest towns in America, but the house where we stayed was quite messy and Inanna quickly got depressed.  Even the opportunity to have a long, hot bath didn’t help much with her mood.  But I made the most of it.  I stayed in the tub for a long time that evening, massaging my thighs.  They were hurting like they had never hurt before, they were red, and they were hot.  We hobbled down to a restaurant, the Uni-Caf across from the University of Virginia, and bought a cheap dinner. 

     

    We slept apart that night.  Inanna stayed depressed, quiet, and an icy wall settled down between us.

  • Against the Wind: Day 3 of a bike trip across America

    Day 3: 6/7/77

     


    This day was my 31st birthday, and started nicely when the couple on whose yard we were encamped came out and offered us bottles of cold soda.  We accepted gratefully and savored the cold, sweet taste as they asked about our trip.  They must have wondered whether we would really make it—after all, we were just starting our third day of a three-month trip.  After we had packed up our things and were ready to ride, the day continued on a positive note with the receipt of my birthday present from Inanna.  She had talked about it, and I was looking forward to whatever it could have been.  I had hoped it wasn’t so big that we were carrying needless extra weight.  It turned out to be a perfect present, easily concealed for two days, not heavy at all: a Saint Christopher medallion.  The job of this amulet from then on was to protect us on this journey.  I tied it onto the front of my handlebar pannier, and it immediately began warding off serious injury.  I know St. Christopher has been defrocked, but so many travelers have invested protective powers in him that he may have a life of his own now.

     

    In spite of this excellent start to a new day, things started going downhill of us.  A struggle had been slowly brewing between Inanna and myself.  I wanted to ride fast, pushing myself to the limit.  She was unwilling to push herself.  Perhaps she was afraid of crashing, or maybe it was because she had never been encouraged to be athletic.  But I was constantly getting ahead of her and having to stop to wait for her to catch up.  She would feel left out and hurt; I’d feel irritated.  When I would ride slowly in front of her, it seemed an uncomfortably slow pace.  I’d try to just be patient, but soon I’d be far ahead.

     

    But I thought back to the exhaustion and fear of day 1.  Wouldn’t I burn myself out if I pushed?  And wouldn’t I put ever-mounting stresses on our relationship?  After all, it seemed the relationship was as important an ingredient in this trip as the bikes.

     

    I finally found the best solution: I’d let Inanna ride in front.  She’d set the pace, and I could stay close behind without strain—emotional or physical.  It seemed to make all the difference.  Now I could not worry about the pace, but instead enjoy the countryside.  And I could stay close enough that I could talk to her, move up beside her if it was safe, then drop back. I watched the map and could let her know when a turn was coming up.  Our trip became a gentle cruise through the park, at Inanna’s pace.

     

    A dog chased us that day.  I stopped, pulled out the bicycle pump, and waved it at the dog, yelling at him.  He backed away.  I would wave that pump at quite a few dogs over the next several weeks.  I also had a dog-spray with me, a small can I kept hung on the handlebar.  We had been told that dogs would be a problem.  By riding in the back, I would be the one to attract the attention of dogs—they inevitably chased the rear bike.  I had the pump and the spray can.  I remembered one of the practice rides we had taken in Virginia Beach—a dog jumped me from the right, and I had the dog spray on the left side of the bike.  In trying to transfer from left had to right, I lost my balance and fell into the ditch.  It was soft grass, and I was just momentarily stunned.  The dog came up and licked my face.  He had just been playing.  That day I had learned another lesson—keep the spray on the right side.  The dogs always came from the right, since we rode on the right side of the road.  Despite this friendly dog, I was still going to assume they were unfriendly.  I hate to be chased by dogs.

     

    We had a flat that morning.  The strategy was to switch tubes after flats for an intact one, and repair flat ones at convenient stopping points.  The glue from the patching kit needed to set overnight, anyway, so there was no need to push things.  So after putting a new tube onto my rear wheel, we made it into Bumpass in time for lunch.  Bumpass is an intersection with a vacant lot, two vacant buildings, and a general store, and we had another flat as we pulled up to the vacant lot.  I put another good tube onto the bike during that break, and while we ate lunch we heard a loud pop—that one had gone flat on its own.  We were down to one last decent tube, a repatched one, and suddenly I was worried.  Evidently, flat tires would be a serious problem, and we didn’t have enough spare tubes with us.  And what would we do if this last one went before we found a place to buy food and stop for the night?  We’d get by, repatch the tubes, but lose at least a half-day in the deal.  While we worried, we bought Nutty Buddies at the general store.  They helped a little, and we gingerly rode to Mineral.  There were no bicycle stores in this town, and we had no idea when we would find one.  It was getting late, and we’d already found out that some of the stores out here closed early.  So we bought coffee in the first restaurant we saw and got lucky.  We struck up a conversation with a man named Bill Petit who said there was a Western Auto store in Louisa, six miles ahead—but that the store closed in a few minutes.  He quickly offered to take us there in his pickup, and in 15 minutes we were there, just as the lady was ready to lock the door.  We bought three tubes and felt quite fortunate.

     


    After thanking Mr. Petit for his kindness, we found a big grocery store and took some decent food to look for a place to camp. On the outskirts of town was a little league baseball field, and we camped in right field.  We slept well that night, feeling we had dodged a bullet.  I wondered if more of the people we would meet would be like Bill Petit.  I also thought about the fact that we weren’t even half way through Virginia and had already covered six miles in a motor vehicle.  An eventful birthday.

     

    (Entered 2/19/6)

  • Against the Wind, Day 2: A bike trip across America

    Day 2: 6/6/77

     

    I awoke with a dream of the Naval Academy.  Running toward formation, carrying my M-1, up ladders (stairs), down ladders, unable to find the formation, knowing I will be late and on report.  I lay in the sleeping bag and thought about those times.

     

    ***

     

    I guess I could have been called a dreamer as a youngster.  My father was certainly a dreamer, and like him, I learned to avoid daily details.  I could escape to stories, especially history.  When we spent two years on Navy bases where my parents were school teachers, I fell in love with the Navy.  It seemed to be a place with loads of equal parts of romance and job security. Perfect for a dreamer who was having doubts that he could ever make a place for himself in the world.

     

    I managed an appointment to the Naval Academy as a competitive alternate but was pronounced a “shitbird” on my first day there.  I soon learned that I didn’t belong.  I knew more about naval history than anyone there did (except maybe one or two of the professors) but they didn’t want to know about that.  They wanted me to memorize Reef Points.

     

    “What time is it?”

     

    “Sir, I regret to inform you that the inner workings and hidden mechanisms of my chronometer are in such inaccord with the great sidereal movement by which time is generally reckoned that I cannot with any degree of accuracy state the correct time.  However, without fear of being too greatly in error, I can state that it is 42 minutes, 34 seconds and 12 ticks after 1400.”

     

    There was lots more to memorize, but I didn’t do it very assiduously.  We were given Reef Points and The History of the United States Navy.  I read the history and ignored Reef Points and started out behind.  Nobody ever asked me about the Battle of the Atlantic or Alfred Thayer Mahan’s influence on world maritime thinking.  They wanted my shoes shined and my hair cut, daily and weekly, respectively.

     


    For a few weeks I was just one of the marginal Plebes.  Then it got personal.  I ratted on an upperclassman.  I hadn’t volunteered it, I was asked under pressure, but I still violated the most important unwritten rule—and we all know that the crucial rules are never written.  I told of being forced to do pushups under the table while everybody else was eating.  My tormentor got into big trouble, and the word went out: Run Butler Out.

     

    Most of the Class of 1966 went on alert.  Finding me doing something wrong seemed to be an opportunity to win some sort of medal.  And I did lots of things wrong, it seemed.  Three hundred demerits were allowed that first year, and just in September and half of October I had earned 215.  I kept telling myself that they’d never get rid of me.  I was in the grip of cognitive dissonance.  I couldn’t see myself going back home to my high school buddies, tail between my legs, a failure in the first thing of any significance I’d ever tried to do.  I’d gut it out.

     

    Then came the straw that broke the camel’s back.  I had been up in the middle of the night shining shoes, trying to memorize inane trivia.  That next morning I was in English class (“Bull”, we called it) for a lecture on Hegel.  I had had Hegel’s Philosophy of History on my shelf since the start of high school, but had never been able to get into it.  I slept through that lecture.  When I realized what had happened I cracked.  I cried, I gave up, I went to the Company Officer and requested to resign.  I signed the papers he handed me.  I called home and cried some more.  I was coming home.

     

    That was when the first angel intervened.  My father became half crazy, and began talking to everybody, even strangers, about the unfairness of what was happening to me. One such stranger, met in a grocery store line that next day, happened to know a retired admiral, the Naval Academy roommate of the current Superintendent.   

     

    Dad called him and this kind man immediately called the “Sup.”  The Sup called the Commandant, who called the Battalion Officer, who called the Company Officer, who called all the first classmen (seniors) of the company together that night at about midnight.  The upshot of the meeting was that I was being treated unfairly, and I would not be allowed to quit.  I was assigned a Firsty who would take me under his wing, explain to me what I had been missing, and make sure that nobody was treating me unfairly.

     

    Life sure changed—at least on the surface.  Al Hoof, my Firsty, did keep me away from the normal hassle.  He had me “come around” to his room after classes every evening for most of the rest of the year.  Just that simple device kept me away from the rest of them.  Al was somewhat weird, however.  While never letting me forget that he was my senior, we sat in the dark and played chess, and he even made me memorize the titles of bagpipe music.  In his immature way (he was only 23, after all) he was protecting me.

     

    But nobody was fooled.  I didn’t fit and everybody knew it.  I had been saved by some mechanism which was outside the normal process, and that meant that I was not normal.  It was difficult for people to become my friends, even among my own classmates.  I know I contributed to that state of affairs, certainly by my own immaturity…

     

    ***

     

    We rode again, and the second day was much better.  We covered 51 miles and entered Virginia’s Piedmont, leaving the swampy lowlands behind us.  We started with a rain shower during breakfast and had to fight traffic between Mechanicsville and Ashland, but we felt we had accomplished something.  The weather was not as sticky, and there were no bugs. 

     

    Along the way we saw the Malvern Hill and Cold Harbor battlefields.  During the Civil War, the South lost 5000 men at Malvern Hill, and the North lost 7000 in 30 minutes at Cold Harbor.  These two battles were just a part of the long and hellish seige of Petersburg and Richmond, lead by Ulysses S. Grant against Robert E. Lee in 1864-65.  It crossed my mind that in two days we had symbolically traversed 250 years of U.S. history, as Americans had struggled to establish our country. 

     

    These battlefields may have been a hell then, but Cold Harbor was an oasis for us now—plenty of bright green grass, trees, warm sun, a nice breeze, even bathrooms, and not many people.  So we dried out our tent and clothes there while we had lunch.  The warm, dry wind filled our tent and billowed it out like a spinnaker.  The sensuous beauty of the moment was breathtaking, and no electric dryer would have worked faster.  The contrast with the suffering of 113 years earlier was dramatic. 

     

    We repacked our tent and pushed on toward the north, still following the BikeCentenial maps.  The day continued warm and sunny, and traffic was not difficult.  The roads were still fairly flat, and we pedaled a quarter of a full circle around the city of Richmond.

     

    That night, when it was time to camp, we were north of Richmond, near Ashland. We knocked at the door of a friendly middle-aged couple to see if we could camp in their big yard.  They had to ask us lots of questions to make sure we wouldn’t mess things up, but in the end they said yes and we found real moss on which to pitch the tent. 

     

    That tent turned out to be one of the strengths of the journey.  Made by Coleman, it could be set up in a jiffy, held the two of us, seated or sleeping, and weighed almost nothing.  It held up without mechanical failure for the entire summer, and we slept in it almost every night.  In fact, it is still holding up, a quarter of a century later, although I only use it about once a year now.  It kept out the bugs, and wind, and the rain.  Its only drawback was a minimal rainfly.  If we faced both wind and rain, and the rain hit us from an angle, the rainfly would be of no use.  We would see later what would happen when we encountered that kind of weather.

  • Against the Wind, Day 1: 6/5/77

    II. The Adventure

     

    ***

     

    Virginia

     


    Day 1: 6/5/77

     

    It was finally time for the trip to begin.  I turned in my keys at work, a big key ring, about ten keys.  My pocket felt lighter without it.  The house was now rented for the summer, and I gave my two sets of house keys to the real estate lady.  I gave my last key to Inanna’s father, who would watch my car for the summer.   It’s amazing how keys symbolized my attachment to responsibility.  Now I really felt free.  Packed with clothes, maps, gear and a day’s food, plus several copies of our resumes, we were driven to the Yorktown Battlefield monument, near the Chesapeake Bay, and began the trip.  It was June 5, 1977.  It started off wrong—we knocked over Inanna’s bike, precariously balanced that it was with its heavy load, and anxiously I tried to stop its fall with my foot on the rim.  Just a slight bent rim to start the trip.  But we headed out to the Colonial Parkway’s paving stones and began.

     

    The Colonial National Historical Park is a 23-mile road connecting the famous Yorktown battlefield with Jamestown, the site of the first successful English settlement in the New World.  In 1607, 13 years before the founding of the Plymouth Colony in Massachusetts, a group of somewhat foolhardy English gentlemen established Jamestown, after first landing at Cape Henry, at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, in what is now Virginia Beach.  After several seasons of starvation and Indian attacks, the settlement finally found its bearings and developed into the thriving  colony of Virginia.

     

    In 1781 the Battle of Yorktown was fought between Cornwallis’ English army and George Washington’s forces, aided by Lafayette.  Cornwallis was surrounded, and the English fleet under Admiral Thomas Graves was sent to rescue him.  Graves was driven off by Admiral  Comte de Grasse of the French navy at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, within sight of Virginia Beach, at the Battle of the Virginia Capes.  After this rare English naval defeat, Cornwallis was forced to surrender, a band played “The World turned Upside Down”, and what would become known as the United States of America was born.  The first 174 years of U.S. history are represented by this parkway.

     

    Between Jamestown and Yorktown on the parkway is Williamsburg, the famous restored tourist draw.  It was the capital of Virginia for many years, and is the site of the College of William and Mary.  A few weeks earlier Inanna and I had tried to camp there on our one overnight preparatory trip.  Now, we cruised right past Williamsburg, retracing our earlier path to Jamestown.

     

    The parkway is a gorgeous road with a gently winding path among a perennially green natural setting.  There are almost no signs of civilization visible from the parkway beyond pretty brick overpasses that allow cars to pass unobtrusively.  Much of the parkway has a paving stone surface, adding a quaint air.  Riding a 10-speed on paving stones is not easy on the backside in most cases, but we evidently were excited because they didn’t hurt us at all.  With Inanna in the lead I could see that her rim was bent a little, and she complained that her brake rubbed, but we weren’t going to stop this soon.

     

    We stopped for lunch after we completed the Colonial Parkway, at the mouth of the Chickahominy River, where it joins the James River.  I sat down and actually tuned the back wheel of Inanna’s bike—you can pluck the spokes and tell whether they are being tightened or loosened by their pitch.  And it worked—her wheel was straight.  That was a major accomplishment.  Maintenance could be a bugaboo on the trip, and I was not an experienced hand.  I had never aligned a wheel before, much less changed a spoke, and although I had brought what the local bike experts said was necessary in the way of tools and spare parts, I was nervous.  But this first hurdle had gone well.

     

    The second half of this first day moved us into a humid, almost swampy area that was full of flying insects.  We were on the north side of the James River, which evidently is not the preferred side.  The only town around was Charles City, which sounds large enough to have a grocery store.  But not one store was open at 5 PM, and our first dinner was going to be from the meager rations we had stockpiled.  We kept going, and by the time it was time to stop, near Shirley Plantation, we had covered 46 miles and I was dog tired. And I had an incredible shortness of breath—which made me irritable and depressed.  Those feelings were covering a real fear: if I’m this weary after only one day of riding, how can I possibly make it across the country, up steep mountains, in bad weather, and who knows what else?

     

    Inanna saved me that evening.  She comforted me and made me a great omelet for dinner.  Her patience and kindness and tolerance still stand out after all these years.  For an hour I was her child—and then I was fine.  We became walking tourists and decided to visit Shirley Plantation.  The road was dirt and gravel, so we trudged onward, never seeing anything except dry cornfields to the left and right, and small rolling hills ahead.  Finally we turned around and walked back, a mile of wasted effort for two people who had every reason to conserve their strength.

     


    One of the limits of bicycle touring would later become evident, but this was the first clue, and on day one: If it’s not near the main road, pass it by.

     

    So back to the tent we went, just in time to miss the onrush of evening bugs.  I knew I had to get used to that, plus writing in a very uncomfortable position: on my stomach, supported by my arms.  And we had to learn to sleep with suntan lotion and insect repellent and sweat on our skins.  But we were really doing it!

     

    I thought of our foolish walk, and was thankful that we were doing this on bikes, not like my good friend ***, backpacking his way through Carolina about now in rugged territory with 60 pounds on his back.

     

     And before sleeping I thought of the ghost ships nearby, the mothballed Liberty Ships in the James.  I had flown over them several times while I was in the Navy.  The road we were on was totally deserted because a ship had collided with the Hopewell Bridge 6 weeks earlier and all the traffic was diverted.  We were all alone—just us and the ghost ships.

     

    Neither of us slept well that night, among the ghosts.   I thought about my shortness of breath—it was a symptom I had never exactly experienced before.  I decided I must have been so excited and worried about getting the trip started, that I had worked myself into an anxiety attack. If so, it is the only one I have had, before or since.  We talked a little at 4 AM.  It seemed to help each of us.  I finally fell asleep, feeling thankful to have Inanna as my guide and companion.

     

  • Against the Wind: The Call to Adventure. The beginning of a 3,100 mile oddysey, Virginia to California

    Against the Wind

     

    I. The Call

     

    An angel visited me in the early spring of 1977.

     

    He didn't look like an angel--that is, I'm not sure what an angel is supposed to look like. But this man looked pretty ordinary.  He was just an average person, applying for a job.

     

    He was a friendly young man, easy to talk with, and yet clearly unqualified for the job.  My mind was drawn to something that was not there. I said, "I see your resume is blank for last summer.  What did you do all summer?"

     

    "I rode a bicycle across the country," he replied.  I forgot about the job interview.  Now I was only interested in his adventure.  He enthusiastically told me how he had entered the Bikecentenial program of the summer of 1976, how he had ridden with about a dozen people from Oregon to Yorktown, Virginia, on bicycles. 

     

    He didn't look like an athlete--he certainly wasn't a macho type--and I asked him about the physical part of the journey.  He said you don't have to be in any special physical condition, that the trip gives you the required training mile by mile.  He added that he met several older people on the trip, people in their 60s, and they seemed to be doing fine.  He spoke about the heat in Kansas--it was so hot that they slept during the day and rode at night.  There was so little traffic that riding at night was safe.

     

    My imagination was obviously captured, and my angel began to encourage me.  He said that the most important thing was to bring the right equipment.  He suggested a couple of overnight trips to make sure that I had everything I needed.  He even volunteered to go on an overnight with me.

     

    I went home that night full of dreams.  I told Inanna about my visitor--I didn't know he was an angel then, so didn't call him one--and she seemed just as interested as I was.  So we began to kick it around, and after several days, we hadn't let up.  Maybe a fantasy could become reality.

     

    That fantasy had been born the previous summer, when Inanna and I stood on the fantail of a tall ship tied up for the Norfolk Harborfest of 1976.  We watched the small sailboats in the harbor from our perch and talked of sailing around the world, as the teenage boy had done in the movie The Dove, which we had just seen.  Of course, this could never be more than a fantasy.  Neither of us could sail, I get seasick, and we didn't have a sailboat.  Plus, I knew such a scheme is a silly way to get yourself killed.  So the dream had gone into a file somewhere, but was retrieved by my angel friend.

     

    There was also ***.  We all deeply respected ***.  He had recently announced his resignation where I worked.  He was going to hike the Appalachian Trail.  He planned to leave on April 1 from Georgia, hiking the most rugged territory in the Eastern U.S. to Maine.  He hoped to be done in five months.  We were all shocked, and I felt a special loss.  We worked together, and I depended on his levelheaded kindness.  I wouldn't have his support any more at the clinic.  As I began to accept that he was really leaving, we talked about his trip.  I told him about my fantasy of a cross-country bike trip, and we began to consider a rendezvous.   If I started west two months after he started north--our paths would cross, and we could make sure it would happen at the same time if we planned it right.

     

                Inanna and I began to shop for bicycles, and talk to the people in bike shops about the gear needed for such a trip.  We purchased the Transamerica Trail Maps and guidebooks, which had been written for the BikeCentenniel the year before.  This was the route followed by my angel friend.  But we would have a different destination.  We sent for several state highway maps, and tried to identify a route.  Where we would go was never in doubt: San Diego, my hometown, my parents, sister and brothers.  If you could ride to Oregon, you could ride to Southern California, we figured.  But we saw a problem right away on the maps.  Oregon can be reached without crossing the desert.  To get to California, you must cross Nevada or Arizona.  And those two states are mostly desert, and would be formidable for a couple of novice bikers in the summertime.

     

    So we needed advice from the natives, and began writing letters.  We got very helpful responses from the departments of transportation of the western states, and they mostly agreed that the desert would be tough to cross.  We also received nice notes from several contacts out west who were bikers and could advise about specific routes.  One of them solved the problem flat out.  "Why worry about the desert at all?" the letter said.  "The desert is just hard work, and even dangerous.  Your trip sounds like fun, not work.  Hitchhike through the desert, and use the time you'll have saved to have more fun."  A glance at the map showed us that the distance from Salt Lake City, Utah, to Reno, Nevada, about 500 miles, was also approximately the distance from San Francisco to San Diego.  So with this nice man's permission we could skip the desert entirely, and replace it with a ride along the prettiest coastline in America.  Now the trip looked like it could become real.

     

    There was never any question in my mind that the trip would be from east to west--even when I found out that the prevailing winds are from the west.  The headwinds would be tough, but I was thinking of the Westward Movement.  I had visions of the Oregon Trail and the vastness of America.  The stories my father had told me and read to me were still alive in my head.  A bicycle was the best way I could think of crossing this vastness while paralleling the historical crossings.  It was to be done without any power but my own, like those settlers who populated the west during the nineteenth century.

     

    My daughter Cathy was six, and I was her primary caregiver that winter.  The separation from her mother, two years earlier, had been rough on her, but she was stabilizing.  Susan, my ex, was a very responsible person and had stated her commitment to having Cathy with her in Washington, D. C., over the summer.  It was a once-in-a-lifetime chance.  I could do something crazy and not be irresponsible.  But how could a bicycle trip across the country be responsible?  I called my father, told him I was considering it, and he tried to talk me out of it.  When that didn’t work, he suggested I buy a gun for protection.  I didn’t consider his suggestion for even a second.

     

    I had called my angel friend several times, but he was never home.  I wanted to get more advice from him.  Now I began calling him in earnest, almost daily, but still without success.  And we were making plans.  We bought bikes, each for about $120.  We tried to get fancy hill-climbing gears added, but found that the bikes we chose were too cheap to allow such customization.  I found a store that sold me a decent backpacking tent.  We gathered sleeping bags, a backpacking stove, and panniers for the bikes.  And my angel still didn't answer the phone.

     

    I went to my boss and had the temerity to ask for the summer off.  I had six weeks of accrued vacation, and so really only needed six weeks extra, without pay, to make the trip.  He refused, reminding me that the summer was by far the busiest time of year for us.  I went back to him the next day with a tougher proposal.  Give me the time off, or I’ll quit.  He very politely told me that quitting was my decision, but that he had to have that job filled.  I went home and called my angel.  No answer.

     

    I called a real estate lady who assured me that the house could be rented for the summer.  The rent she projected would cover the mortgage payments, her commission, and a little repair if needed.  I called Virginia Savage, the payroll person where I worked, and she told me I could cash my accrued retirement account but it wouldn’t be available for about three months.  She also said I could cash in my unused vacation.  So we would have some money for the trip, and a little more to keep things together for a couple of months when we got back to allow us to get new jobs—maybe.

     

    My angel still didn’t answer the phone. I remembered that he had suggested an overnight to make sure that we had everything we needed.  It was time to do that overnight.  We had taken to riding ten miles a day, which was all we had time for, and we were putting heavy things in the panniers, but the local flat terrain was not working us very hard.

     

    We took the bikes and gear to my ex-father-in-law’s house in the country, about ten miles away, left the car there, and headed west.  We found some beautiful back roads, the weather was nice, and we rode all the way to the Jamestown Ferry.  We walked the bikes on, with all the cars, and felt very smug when we boiled some water on our little backpack stove and had a cup of instant coffee while we sailed across the James River.  We told ourselves that the drivers of those cars must have been impressed with the sight of such an unconventional pair.

     

    We found the Colonial Parkway and rode to Williamsburg, where we did not have a good time.  We couldn’t find a place to camp, and part of the plan was to camp “along the side of the road” whenever possible.  But such a highly organized tourist attraction wouldn’t leave an easy camping spot, so we wound up pulling the bikes up an embankment next to a major road and camping behind the bushes there.  The spot was noisy, but nobody could see us, so we felt safe.  We set up the tent, cooked dinner, unrolled our sleeping bags, and had a nice sleep.  Next morning we reversed our path and arrived home a little tired, but mostly excited that we had done it, that we had solved problems, that we had adequate gear to make the trip.

     

    I called my angel that next day, but still the phone just rang.  I called my boss one more time.  He was adamant.  So I told him I would submit my letter of resignation.  That night Inanna and I decided we could actually do it, and that my angel friend would probably just help us fine-tune our plans.  I wrote and delivered my resignation.

     

    This time, my call to the angel went differently.   “The number you have dialed is not in service,” the recording droned.  We were really on our own.  And with no help from the angel.

     

    This serialized blog will continue every two or three days.

     

  • 150 Miles and One More Miracle

    150 Miles and One More Miracle

     

    Bill Butler

     

                It started out foggy and cool.  I had to wipe my glasses several times to be able to see the bicycles ahead of me.  We couldn’t see the houses back from the road, or much other scenery.  But I was riding another MS 150.  A year ago I might have told you I would never do one again.

     

    ***

     

                I had ridden three of these 150-mile fund-raisers for the National Multiple Sclerosis Society.  I always ask my friends and neighbors to contribute and support my ride.  But in April of 1999 I developed a strange, intense pain in my left shoulder after a flight back from Ohio.  The pain spread quickly to my neck and right shoulder, then down my back.  Soon my neck was so stiff I couldn’t turn it left or right.  I was unable to ride in the 1999 MS 150 that May, and I wondered what else I was gong to lose.

     

    The chiropractor couldn’t help, and neither could the acupuncturist.  My GP referred me to a rheumatologist who couldn’t diagnose it, even after x-rays and a bone scan.  But he did find a medicine that controlled the pain—or perhaps most of it.  Indomethecin, it was called, and it was known to damage the stomach.  A second rheumatologist did diagnose my illness, using DNA analysis.  I had Reiter’s Syndrome, or reactive arthritis, which is an auto-immune reaction to infection.  Only a tiny population is pre-disposed to get this disease.  I had never heard of it.  But with the diagnosis came no cure.  I began taking antibiotics along with something to protect me from the Indomethecin.

     

    Although the pain and stiffness in my neck and shoulders were mostly under control now because of the medicine, the disease spread to my feet.  My heels were inflamed, as were two joints on my left foot.  I was referred to a physical therapist who put me through 2 months of thrice-weekly flexibility and strength exercises, and the feet stayed the same while my left knee became swollen to twice its normal size.  I couldn’t get off the floor without holding on to something.  I could barely walk—usually only taking steps half my normal stride.

     

    The next spring came up, and the MS 150 was out of the question.  I just wanted to survive.  I did get a new job, a much better one, and I was thankful that they didn’t take a good look at how I walked—or if they did, that they didn’t hold it against me.  At work, I was definitely not my best.  I was still trying to go to the YMCA and work out every day.  It hurt to have to reduce the weights on the weight circuit.  I kept wondering which weight I would have to reduce next.

     

    Then, on the first of October, 2000, came worse news.  A bleeding ulcer, caused by the medicine I had been taking.  My doctors had told me it would happen eventually—but I was hoping it wouldn’t be for a long time.  I had never had stomach trouble.  Now my rheumatologist took me off Indomethecin, and told me I could take nothing stronger than Tylenol.  I asked him if there was a diet for this arthritis pain.  He said no, there was no diet for this.   He then referred me for treatment of the bleeding ulcer

     

    My new GP put me on more medicine, this time for the ulcer.  He assured me the ulcer would be healed quickly as long as I took no more Indomethecin.  But within a couple days my neck was hurting so badly that I started to get really scared.

     

    I took my daughter to the library one Saturday afternoon so she could work on a school project.  I sat there trying to read a book on management.  My neck hurt so much I couldn’t concentrate.  I kept massaging my neck and wondering what I should do.  A voice inside me said “You don’t need to be reading about management.  You need to be reading about arthritis.”

     

    I went to the card catalogue (which is a computer now) and looked up arthritis.  A title jumped out at me.  How to Eat Away Arthritis by Lauri M. Aesoph.  I wrote down the number and went to find it.  Usually I don’t find books I need.  But there it was.  I took it and went back to the table to read.

     

    Fast for two days, it said.  Then eat nothing but apples.  When you get back to eating other foods, eliminate all chemicals (like artificial sweeteners and preservatives, caffeine and alcohol).  Eliminate all refined flour and sugar.  Eliminate milk products, fatty meats, and even nightshade vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.).  Then after the pain is resolved, trying adding a few things back in, one at a time, so learn your individual reaction to them.  She had pages of testimonials from arthritis sufferers who had experienced great results from the diet.  But it was confusing.  How do you fast?  How long do you eat apples?

     

    I can’t fast, anyway.  But we had some apples at home, so that evening I went on the apple diet.  I sat in my lazy boy, feeling in some sort of shock, really quite terrified, and out of desperation started eating apples.  Apples that night, apples for breakfast.  Apples for lunch.  My wife, Mary, went out and bought more apples, and I had apples for dinner.  Luckily, October is a good month for apples, and I have always found a good crunchy apple quite delicious.  Sunday night, as I went to bed, I noticed I felt quite a bit better.  The pain in my neck was at least 50% less.

     

    I started eating apples for breakfast and dinner, and salads for lunch. The pain continued to abate, although my feet were still a real problem.  And now I had another worry.  My office wanted me to spend 8 days on the road.  I would travel to L. A., get to visit my parents in San Diego, then travel to Northern Virginia, upstate New York and South Carolina.  How would I be able to walk through all those airports?  I imagined myself riding in those carts they reserve for old people and handicapped people.  But I was feeling a little better each day.  I loaded up on apples and fresh vegetables and went to the airport.

     

    I was able to walk through L. A. International without a handicapped cart!  I spent a half day on my feet Saturday morning, then drove to my parents’ 55th wedding anniversary in San Diego.  My brothers and parents noticed me limping, but to me things were better than they had been for months.  My Mom suggested I add MSM and digestive enzymes to my regimen, which I still do.  I ate fish and salad at the big dinner, had a lot of laughs with my family, then flew back east.  I was eating from a plastic bag of celery and broccoli, refusing airline food, and feeling a little better each day.  When I finally returned the following Friday night, I was charged up about everything.

     

    I spent the rest of the month eating salads, fish, a little chicken, vegetables, and of course apples.  Things continued to improve.  Then, on Halloween night, as the Trick-or-Treaters were coming to the door, I ate some candy and two pieces of pizza.  Within an hour the pain was back in my neck.   But I felt better the next morning, and swore I wouldn’t get off the diet again.

     

    In November I went back to my GP and he told me my ulcer was resolved.  I also went back to my rheumatologist and he was amazed.  He pronounced me cured.  He said I didn’t need to set any more appointments.  I told him he should recommend this diet to his patients, and he asked for the book title and author.  I couldn’t remember it and told him I would call him back.

     

    As the weeks passed, I found myself relaxing the diet more and more.  By May, I was eating good breakfasts 100% of the time, good lunches and dinners 75%, and having bad snacks rarely—and I had not had even one diet soda in six months.  My symptoms were so reduced that it was hard to tell them from normal aches and pains of aging.

     

    But I never called my rheumatologist back.  Why?  I guess I didn’t really believe I was cured.  Two years of illness had left me in a kind of shock.  We would see if I was really cured.  But how would I know?  In January came the notice of the next MS 150, to be ridden May 19 and 20.  That’s how I would know.  If I could ride 150 miles on a bicycle in two days, I would consider myself cured.  Then I would tell him about the book, and the diet.

     

    ***

     

    I was really doing it!  As we left the starting place at the Suffolk Airport, I was riding through a crowd of cyclists, getting through the start, trying to find a pace line.  Some riders were much too fast for me, some were too slow.  I weaved through the individual riders.  For several minutes, I was also an individual.  But then along came a line of 6 or 7 riders, going a little faster than me, but not too much faster.  I jumped into line at the end, and that wonderful phenomenon happened again, just like I knew it would.  My speed jumped from 15 to 20 miles per hour.  I was drafting on them, and my speed jumped 33% with only a tiny extra expenditure of energy.

     

    I rode with them for most of the first leg.  We chatted a little, but it isn’t easy to talk with a person whose back is turned to you—or to a person behind you.  We griped a little about the fog, about not being able to see the scenery.

     

    At the first rest stop, I let that pace line get away from me by resting too long.  At the rest stops, there are always lots of spring water, high carbohydrate snacks, bananas, and porta-potties.  I stretched out, loaded back up on water, and headed out.  Soon another group came up, going even faster.  I got into line.  Now I was going 21, 22 miles per hour.  But this became tiring, and after 8 miles or so I had to drop back.  Then it was time to bicycle alone.

     

    I got into another line after the next rest stop, and met Maurice.  He was a muscular African-American in a tight-fitting, matching cycling outfit.  He had a shiny bike with his name hand-lettered onto it.  He was full of spirit, passing us, dropping back, cheering us on, challenging us, making jokes, even singing religious songs.  I followed him for a little ways, and he was off again.  I was to see Maurice many times over the two days, because he was so noticable—he was striking-looking, loud, good-natured, and in no hurry to finish.  He would drop back to be with people he enjoyed, chatting, waiting a long time at rest stops, then he would pass everyone again.

     

    It was not hard that morning.  There was no wind, and headwinds are a cyclist’s curse.  There was no sunshine, so we didn’t overheat.  Once, three years ago, it had gotten up to 97 degrees and I had become dehydrated.  That was the day I learned to force fluids at every rest stop.  If I ever left a stop without urinating, I was becoming dehydrated.  But today, there was little chance of that.  If anything, it might become too cold.  And there was a forecast of thunderstorms in the afternoon and evening, and perhaps rain tomorrow for the ride back.

     

    There are always 7 rest stops, with about 10 miles between them.  The middle stop is lunch.  Lunch is always the same: peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and pasta salad.  The bread isn’t whole wheat and I am sure had preservatives in it, but I ate and sat in a comfortable outside chair with arms on it.

     

    It is called lunch because it is halfway to the destination—but it usually comes at about 9:30 or 10 AM, because we start at 7 AM and have had breakfast at home an hour or more before that.  We are happy to sit and eat.  Then we stretch and get back on those bicycle seats.

     

    After lunch the griping begins in earnest.  The most common gripe is about our sore fannies.  Some people have sore hands, numb hands, or “numb-nuts.”  Some are getting just plain winded.  For me, however, there was also the problem with my back and neck.  To ride a road bike you have to get into an aerodynamic position, hands down low on the “drops” (the lower part of the handlebars),while the seat is raised to allow for a full leg extension for power.  My lower back and neck have always bothered me in that position.  But on recent practice rides it was worse than ever.  I found I could stretch out my neck the opposite way by forcing my chin to my chest and holding it there.  That had the disadvantage of not letting me see the road ahead of me.  But I could give everything a good look first and it would work.  The back was a tougher nut to crack.  I had gone to a chiropractor to fix the back, and had taken a preventive dose of 800 mg of ibuprophen before the ride started.  Now I found that when I dropped down into the full aerodynamic position, the pain returned.  But with my hands on the top part of the handlebars, the pain stayed away.  For a while.

     

    As the day wears on, the faster riders are well past me, and the slower ones are well back.  That’s when I tend to ride alone, or with one other person.  I met several nice people to chat with—a Navy radioman from Pennsylvania, a man named Jim who worked for an insurance company, a Baptist youth minister from Richmond named Mark.  Sometimes we would ride side by side so we could talk.  There was no use in hurrying, now.  We were tired, and no more pace lines would be passing us that we could perhaps join.

     

    The sun did come out that afternoon, and it was a very nice day.  Finally it was hot enough to remind us we were working.  The sweat was dripping down my face onto my glasses.  I cleaned them at a rest stop and noticed that the sun now lighted up the green colors of the North Carolina countryside.  Pines, hardwood, bushes and grasses, even some wildflowers—red poppies--sewn along the roads by the North Carolina Highway Department.

     

    And then we were in Murphreesboro, and Chowan College.  I cruised in with Mark.  At the finish line they greeted us with clapping and cheers, and even better, a cold towel taken from a barrel of icewater.  A volunteer threw it over the back of my neck and I hollered with shock and delight.  I found my favorite swinging chair, attached to the limb of a giant oak tree in the shade.  I just sat there and vegged.  Finally I had the energy to take a shower, retrieve my gear from the truck which had carted it down here, and set up the tent under that big oak tree.  I pulled the sleeping bag out, laid it on the grass, and fell asleep on it.

     

    I awoke in time for dinner in the Chowan cafeteria—same menu: baked chicken and spaghetti, some vegetables and salad.  There was ice cream, too, but I skipped it.  Then we all sat on the quad, in the grass under the great oaks, and waited for the ceremony.

     

    We found out that we had raised $320,000, $15,000 over the previous record, for the MS Society.  We heard some speeches and many people were honored.  One man has ridden the MS 150 each of the 21 years it has been in existence in Hampton Roads.  And the leader of the 65-person team from the Peninsula, the largest team and most successful fund-raisers, had died of cancer this past year.  Then they had the drawings for gifts donated by local bike shops—and my number was one of the winners called!  I won a nice long-sleeved cycling shirt, a pump, and an electronic odometer, plus some music tickets for a concert in Williamsburg. 

     

    I was exhausted as I crawled into my tent to sleep at 9 PM.  I felt like God had been showering me with gifts.  I would have been more than satisfied to just complete this bicycle tour, but now I also received these nice gifts!

     

    I slept like a rock.  I woke up twice to the sound of rain on my tent, but went right back to sleep.  Then, at 5:00, I was up for good.  I had some green tea while I waited for the cafeteria to open, then had breakfast chatting with a nice couple from Hampton.  I hurried back to the tent, put everything away, and was on the road at 6:50.

     

    This day was overcast and cool.  I worried that it might rain—once I had ridden for an hour in a downpour, but that had been on a hot day.  It had been a problem, but we all gritted our way through it.  I remember wringing out my socks like a wet washcloth.  But today was cold, and rain would make it very difficult to ride.  I had not brought adequate clothes for a cold day: just bike shorts, a T-shirt, and a cheesy rain-shirt in my front pannier.

     

    I found a line to ride in, but we soon discovered another problem.  We would be fighting a headwind the whole day.  The cold wind blew down from the north and made the riding hardly enjoyable for me, although some of the riders appreciated that it wasn’t too hot.  We all hated the headwinds.

     

    First my right ankle, and then my right knee began to ache when I pushed myself hard.  Those were new pains.  I had to let a pace line go off without me and slow down.  I could lock the ankle and just push with the leg, and the ankle stopped hurting.  But I needed to flex the knee. The last thing I needed was a seriously bad knee.  I found I could push harder with the left knee, the one that had been so affected with arthritis, and slack off on the right side.  Several more times that day, the right knee began to hurt, and I used that pain as a reminder to lessen the stress on it. 

     

    I got into a line and stayed behind a massive guy, riding upright on a mountain bike.  How he was doing it, I don’t know, but I suspect it had something to do with being young and strong.  He wasn’t riding fast, he was holding his place in line.  He blocked the headwind pretty well for me.  The ride got a little easier for me.  But suddenly he took off, passing the two people in front of him, leaving us in his wake.

     

    It must have demoralized the leader of our group, the “pull”, because soon he dropped back to the rear, making me number two in the line.  I got nervous; they were going to really expect me to take my turn leading the pack.  The woman ahead of me did a great job, holding the pull for about ten minutes, and then she dropped back.  We thanked her for her effort.  I gritted my teeth and took my turn.

     

    It is so much harder to be the leader.  All of the headwind hits you full force.  I tried to get my head down, to streamline myself against the wind.  I grabbed the drops, in the full aerodynamic position.  But I couldn’t maintain that position for long and came up on the handlebars.  I just had to gut it out.  Where I got that spurt of energy, I don’t know.  But I held my position for a good ten minutes before I dropped back—knowing that if I maintained any more, I wouldn’t have the energy left to stay with the group, even in the last position.  As I dropped back, the group gave me the same encouragement they had given the last leader.  It felt good.

     

    In the back of the line I began to regain my strength.  After a while, another leader dropped back, then another.  I would have to take the pull again.  But I was saved by the lunch stop, which appeared mercifully.

     

    At lunch I learned a new stretch.  I always did the Achilles stretch and the quadriceps stretch, plus the chiropractor had taught me to arch my back to counteract the posture which made my back ache.  The new one was the “swing stretch”: we lunched at an odd park that included a graveyard and playground equipment.  A young man sat on the swing, held the ropes, and leaned as far back as he could.  I did the same thing and found it did wonders for my back.  Another thing also happened which was good for my back—and my fanny, my hands, my neck, my knees.  I had run out of ibuprophen but a nice stranger gave me a couple to get me through the day.  Bikers are all Good Samaritans, I have found.

     

    I also noticed an odd sight—an attractive woman smoking a cigarette at the lunch stop.  I laughed out loud, although nobody heard me.  It was even funnier 5 minutes later.  I was back on the road and I was passed by a tandem bicycle, a bicycle built for two, ridden by a man up front and the cigarette-smoking woman in back.  I asked her if I had seen her smoking a cigarette, and she said yes, so I told he I ought to be able to keep up with her.  We all three laughed, and I stayed right behind her as her beau up front, with her help, “pulled” me through miles of countryside.  A tandem bicycle blocks much more wind than a regular cycle, perhaps as much as the man-mountain I had followed an hour before, and their pace was just right for me.  At the next rest stop I noticed something even more remarkable—she was pregnant!

     

    The tandem couple left before I was ready, and I found myself alone again on the road.  I rode slowly, relaxing, ready for somebody to pass who wasn’t going too fast.  There had been quite a few at the last rest stop.  Soon who should come up again but Maurice.  I told him I was glad to see him, and he said “I’ll only be here until my leader catches up!”  Up came a motorcycle.  He got right behind it and they accelerated into the distance together—he was drafting behind the motorcycle!  The motorcyclist, a woman, was calling out their speeds as she accelerated, and he was yelling “a little more!  A little more!”  They went around the bend and out of sight like that.

     

    I was alone again, but I knew somebody else would be by.  Sure enough, after ten or fifteen minutes a group came up, including Andre, a wiry African-American, a couple named Patricia and Bruce, and a chunky guy named Mark—a different Mark.  Mark led us for quite a while, and then he dropped back, and we all took shorter turns in the pull.  I was more tired than ever and I told them I didn’t think I could do it.  Mark said “You can, you can, you the man!”  When it was my turn I took it like before and they all cheered me on—and again, it was difficult, but a source of extra energy kicked in and I did fine.  Mark said to just hold 13 mph, but I held 14 for most of that pull, into the wind.  When I dropped back, they all cheered and urged on the next guy.  We began to talk about how the pain and discomfort we were experiencing was nothing compared to that felt by those with MS.  We reminded one another that this was a sacrifice for others, for people who would probably be glad to change places with us if they could.  As trite and obvious as that was, the sentiment buoyed us.  For all of us, the sustained struggle was more mental than physical now.  We knew we would make it physically.  But we still had to talk our bodies into continuing.

     

    After a while Patricia and Bruce and the others dropped back, and it was just Mark and I.  He told me he was a physical therapist, I told him I was a social worker, and we talked shop for a while.  I told him about my experience with a physical therapist that previous year.

     

    At the next rest stop, I watched Mark, and when he seemed to be ready to go, I was ready, too.  But he said to wait for Bruce and Patricia and Andre.  “You dance with them that brought you,” he said.  In a few minutes we were all back on the road together.  My odometer was off (I had forgotten to punch it at one rest stop) so Mark’s was the only one among us.  He kept shouting out the miles left to the final rest stop.  We were all moaning about how hard this was, how we needed a rest.  We stayed together, taking turns in the pull, that entire ten miles.  We rolled in to that rest stop together.

     

    There was only five miles to go now, and we set out together on the last leg.  After a couple miles, Mark and Andre became a bit rambunctious and surged on ahead.  I caught them and asked if they planned to race to the finish.  The said sure, why not.  We got back into line, and I was thinking about bicycle races I had watched on television.  The first guy out tries to sprint, but uses up all his energy, while the other two, taking turns in the pull, gradually reel him in.  Then he is out of it, and the last two fight it out to the end.  I thought Mark and Andre must have been thinking the same thing.

     

    Suddenly we were going down a hill, and Mark broke to the front, Andre also racing but not drafting on him.  They had gotten the drop on me.  I put my head down and pumped as fast as I could.  I felt a surge of power in my legs and my sense of fatigue left me.  I caught and passed Andre, then caught Mark.  I rode with him a little and he seemed to drop back, while I pushed forward.  I didn’t dare look back, but just rode with all my power.  Soon we were at a little upgrade and I was slowing down.  Mark would surely pass me now.  But I got to the top of the grade and I was still in the lead.  Now it was flat all the way to the finish, and I could see the Airport off to my right.  How close behind me was he?  I couldn’t hear him.  I tried to look behind me, but didn’t see him. 

     

    When I got to the final turn, a 90 degree turn to the right, I finally could look over my right shoulder to see how far behind Mark was.  I couldn’t see him anywhere!  I coasted right up to the finish and the volunteers cheered.  I really didn’t feel tired at all.  I had time to get off the bike, get out the disposable camera, and take photos of my adopted teammates as they cruised in.

     

    We all put up our bikes and reclaimed our gear.  They had hot food and cold drinks prepared for us, and I found both Marks, sharing a little time with each of them.  As we sat on the grass and ate, I found out that the second Mark and I had worked as consultants with the same medical practice in Virginia Beach.  It was a small world after all.

     

    When I finally dragged myself into the house an hour later, I was very tired.  Mary and the girls were glad to see me, and Mary gave me a light kiss from a distance—I was pretty stinky and ugly looking, I guess.  But I told her I was now cured.  I may be older than most of those riders out there, but I am doing pretty well.  It was the culmination of another miracle.

     

    I still wonder if the people who put together these fund-raisers really understand the opportunity they give to the riders.  I am sure I'm not the only person whose life is enhanced by this.  So I want to thank the MS Society, and also those friends and neighbors who contributed money to the MS Society in support of me.  We like to say it is for the victims of MS, and it is, I guess...but it is really for the riders!

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