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Against The Wind

Bicycling as a punctuation for life's turning points.

June 2006 - Posts

  • Against the Wind: a bike trip across America - grinding in western Colorado, sneaking thru eastern Utah

    Day 50, July 25

     

                Next day we got an early start, partly because we were too uptight about that rat to sleep in, partly because we had little to eat for breakfast.  The small town of Elk Springs was not far ahead, and we figured we could get something there to eat—which we did.  We rode on from there through rugged country, and headwinds picked up as the sun rose, but the grade began to descend again.  From 6300 feet at Elk Springs, we gradually descended to 5800 feet at Dinosaur, 37 miles down the road.  Like the day before, the descent didn’t completely cancel out the effect of the headwinds, and the riding was difficult.

     

                As we rode I noticed something shinny on the pavement below me.  I stopped and walked back to examine it.  I picked up a small adjustable wrench with a green plastic coating on the handle—I thought of it as an exciting find.  I caught back up with Inanna and told her about it excitedly. It seemed to me to be a tool for bicycles, it was too small for automobile mechanics.  I wondered aloud about the cyclist who must have dropped it.  I carried that wrench the rest of the way but never found any use for it!  It was too small for the mechanical work I had to do on the bikes.

     

                The find—even though it turned out to be worthless—motivated me to keep my eyes peeled.  It seemed exciting to think that I might find something else of value along the road.

     

                But the excitement waned quickly, as the headwind became stronger and stronger.  We were getting tired, and we had not slept well the night before in the company of rats in the sheepshed, which did not help our energy levels.  We were in a rolling valley between mountainous regions on the left and right.  Even though the general elevation dropped several hundred feet during the morning, we still had quite a few hills to climb.  The climbs slowed us down, and the downhills were nice but always completed quickly—before we had a chance to catch our wind.

     

                Finally we arrived in Dinosaur, three miles from the Utah border.  We were almost through Colorado!   We had lunch at the Artesian Café and bought postcards.  We were exhausted.  We spent extra time in the Café, resting, and writing our postcards.  Mine was a photo of Harper’s Corner in Dinosaur National Monument—a deep, rugged gorge cut by the Yampa River, which we had been following until yesterday.  The Yampa had seemed an innocent river, but it must have picked up steam after we turned south and away from it.  By the time it reached the Dinosaur National Monument it had cut out a gorge 2500 feet deep.  My card read, “This is an example of a view we did not see—since it was uphill 30 miles and out of the way.  Wish we had a motor. There are Dinosaur bones here, but dogs aren’t allowed to chew them.  We’ve followed the Yampa River from Steamboat. We fought stiff headwinds yesterday and today—really draining.  Last night camped in a sheepshed to avoid a rainstorm—but caught rain for drinking water.  Slept with a cute, cuddly plump rat—he held rat races all night on the aluminum roof with a friend.  We enter Utah this afternoon if we can make it!”

     

    ***

     

    Utah

     

     

                The three miles from Dinosaur to the state line were extremely odd.  It was all downhill, into a stiff headwind.  We could coast, but very slowly.  The body and psyche become disoriented in such a circumstance because everything visual says you should be going quickly down the hill.  The invisible wind holds you back, while it simultaneously gives the impression of speed.  It requires conscious thought to understand, because your intuition is telling you lies at such a time.  It is not impossible to fall, because you think you are going faster than you actually are, and at slow speeds, a bicycle is unstable.

     

                It reminded me of the time I dropped skydivers out of a helicopter at 8,000 feet, five or six years earlier.  The weight of the 13 parachutists, at 8,000 feet where the air that supports the helo is thinner, required me to fly at only 50 knots.  This was to avoid “retreating blade tip stall”, in which a blade stalls because it is no longer flying fast enough relative to the wind to create lift.  The other complication was that the winds that day were 40 knots.  Flying into the wind at 8,000 feet at ten knots relative to the ground, you hardly seem to be moving at all.  Since we were constantly taught that airspeed is safety, apparent hovering at 8,000 feet was scary.  I remembered continuously monitoring the airspeed indicator to remind myself that we were safe.

     

                At the state line we stopped to celebrate—but it was a muted celebration.  We were tired, disoriented, and wary of what was next.  The terrain ahead was similar to the last day of riding in Colorado, and the headwind, if anything, was worsening.  Anxiously, we dallied at the state line marker.

     

                A pickup stopped, and a friendly man stepped out.  He initiated a conversation with us.  He seemed to have been doing a lot of traveling, and needed some company.  He asked us about where we were headed, where we had come from, the usual initial questions.  But after that, he seemed to grasp some of the challenges we were facing.  He understood the effect of the strong headwind, and of the terrain.

     

                He told us he was a geologist, and had been traveling the west for many years.  When we shared our fatigue from the last day and a half, he seemed to understand.  He said the road ahead would be quite rough.  He saw the looks in our eyes, and said we should let him take us on through this rough area of eastern Utah.  He said we would like Heber Valley, that the valley was a nice place in which to bicycle.

     

                He didn’t have to convince us.  We were out of gas, emotionally and physically.  The bikes went into the back of his pickup, and we piled into the cab with him.  We rode with him past Vernal, Roosevelt, Starvation Lake, and Strawberry Reservoir.  We climbed 2000 feet between the latter two bodies of water, into the Wasatch Mountains.  But then it was down into Heber Valley, still a mile high at 5500 feet, but 2000 feet below the Wasatch. 

     

    Our guide let us out near Heber City, and it was, indeed, an entirely different environment than that we had just traversed.  The Heber Valley gave us a fantastically different feeling.  It was flat, beautiful farmland with houses, stores, and friendly people.  It was easy to find food for the night, and a nice place to camp.

     

    We had cycled 40 miles that day, and had been driven 167 miles.  It would have taken us three days to complete those miles, and we would have suffered the headwinds and the terrain.  We felt a little guilty again, but we were glad we were in Heber and not still out in the wilds of eastern Utah.

     

  • Against the Wind, Day 49: A bike trip across America - sleeping with a giant rat

    Day 49, July 24

     

                We woke up and peeked out of the tent.  We saw swarms of mosquitoes—they would be on us in a flash as soon as we unzipped the tent flap.  We talked about it and made a plan.  We wouldn’t eat, we rolled up the sleeping bags before we opened up the tent, all was ready.  We went for it.  The tent was down in a flash, improperly folded across the back of the bike.  Inanna put both sleeping bags onto the rear carrier of her bike (she usually carried just one) so I could wrestle with the tent.  Quickly we were riding.

     

                The mosquitoes gave up quickly—they are no match for a bicycle unless there is a following wind, and blessedly, there was no wind that morning.  A mile down the road, they were nowhere to be found.  We stopped and properly stowed everything.  It was 7:20 AM, one of the earliest starts we had experienced.

     

                At that time of the morning, at 6300 feet, it can get cold, even in July.  We had a cold ride while we looked for a nice place to have breakfast.  There were no towns nearby, but we did find a nice spot to pull off and eat, while we let the day warm up a little.  When we rode again, the sun was higher, but there was also the beginning of a headwind.  We were gradually descending from 6300 feet near Hayden, where we had camped with the mosquitoes, through Craig at 6100 feet, and 5900 feet at Maybell.  The slight downgrade tended to minimize the effects of the headwind, which started out lightly but gradually picked up steam.  With it came rain clouds.  We stopped in Maybell for lunch and bought some Vienna Sausage in a tiny grocery store that had few choices.  We laughed about the “little hot dogs” and what a miserable lunch they made.  We both felt tired, so we rested and waited for the rain to stop.

     

                It did finally let up, so we started out again.  Now we were climbing again, and the wind picked up to over 20 mph.  This was hard going—not as hot as back in Colby, Kansas, and the wind wasn’t quite as strong, but we were pedaling uphill—not like the Kansas flatlands.  This was an area of rolling hills, we would climb for a while, then descend.  At the bottom of hills, we would be protected from the wind, in the lee of the hill.  At the top of the hill, just coming up after a tough climb, the wind would hit us full force, with no protection.  We would lose so much headway that we would lose our balance and just stop, kicking out a foot to catch ourselves to keep from falling.  Then we would walk the bikes for a while, until the downhill would permit mounting again.  But the ride was mostly uphill, so it was slow going.

     

                We covered 19 miles like that, almost to Elk Springs.  More storm clouds were gathering, and they promised a heavy rain.  We were exhausted.  We saw some dilapidated metal sheds on the right side of the road and decided to see if there was cover there.  What we found was gruesome.  The sheds were arranged in a rough circle, with fencing on the outside.  Animal bones were spread around the open area in the middle.  There were clumps of dirty white wool around the bones. I told Inanna it must be a place where they shear sheep periodically.  From the looks of it, quite a number of the sheep must have died.  But the bones were stripped clean, as if by some kind of animal.  There was no stench.  The sheds all had clean dirt floors, and corrugated aluminum walls and roofs.

     

                The sight repulsed us, but just then it started to rain, and rain hard.  We hurried into one of the sheds and found we were safe and dry under its shelter.  We wondered what we would do—could we camp there?  We had two packs of freeze-dried food we had been carrying, but we would need extra water, and we were almost out of water.  It would be a difficult night, and a difficult morning.  We tried to talk about the situation, but the rain hammering the aluminum roof made conversation difficult.

     

                That’s when I noticed a stream of rainwater pouring off the roof.  There was evidently a set of gutters, in disrepair, which delivered a great deal of rainwater to within fifteen feet of where we were standing.  I pointed to it, smiled, drank down the last of the water from my bottle, and walked over to the water spout.

     

                “No, it’s filthy!” cried Inanna, and I pulled back my arm.  I thought of those dying sheep, and the ratty shape of the shed we were under.  Maybe she was right.  But the rain continued, and a half-hour later I decided that whatever bacteria may have gathered on that roof would have been washed away by now.  I reached out my water bottle and it was full in a matter of seconds.  I tasted the water—it was good, pure rainwater.  “We can camp here tonight,” I said.  We really didn’t have much choice.

     

                The shed was really quite airy—the walls only came down to within 12 inches from the dirt floor.  There was a wooden framework inside, on which the aluminum walls and roof were attached.  It seemed too exposed to sleep on that dirt floor, so we decided to pitch the tent inside the shed.  We were thankful for our freeze-dried meals because we really had nothing else to eat. 

     

    As we ate I heard a noise, and Inanna pointed up behind me, her face aghast.  I turned to face the biggest rat I have ever seen.  It was just sitting on the wood frame of the shed, peering down at us.  I stood and slowly walked up to it, my plastic water bottle in my hand.  I slowly placed the cap on the battle, tightly, took aim, and threw.  The bottle hit the wood just below the rat, and it scampered away along the wood rafters.  We both shuddered.

     

    It took us a while to relax after the sight of that rat.  What little we had left of our foodstuffs we took carefully into our tent with us.  When it became completely dark, we peered around with our flashlights, and still no more sign of the rat.  We talked about the rats stripping the flesh off those dead sheep, leaving only the bones.  We wondered how many rats lived in this empty sheep-shearing site.  We did not sleep well that night—it was difficult to relax.

  • Against the Wind, Day 48: A bike trip across America - a 20-mile coast in beautiful weather

    Day 48, July 23

     

                This was another bright morning.  The road started out fairly level, as it had been the day before.  However, we soon were climbing a steep grade toward Muddy Pass.  We reminded ourselves that this was one of those roads made after the invention of the bulldozer, and thankfully the grade wasn’t too steep to ride.  We did have to rest a couple of times, but finally made it to the pass.

     

                At the pass we recrossed the Continental Divide, which had snaked west as we had turned south.  There at the divide was a very attractive restaurant, really a hunting lodge, and we were happy to stop for lunch.  As we ate, we watched the owner and envied him.  To be able to spend your days in a beautiful spot like this, serving good food to people, seemed idyllic.  We wondered how he did it.  Was he a career restaurateur who had moved up from smaller places?  Had he made his career in something else entirely, then retired to do this?  It was fascinating to consider the possibilities.

     

                The road turned west at the pass, and climbed for few more miles until we were at Rabbit Ears Pass, 9426 feet.  This was a cold climb, as the sun dipped behind some clouds and we felt the wind and the elevation.  But as we reached the top the sun came back out again.  We stopped and wrote our postcards.  Mine showed a rough gorge with a river at the bottom, a road snaking along the right side above the river, and a railroad on the left side.  “Dear Lowlanders, We passed through this canyon just after sending the last card.  The river is the Colorado River.  Now we’re on the top of Rabbit Ears Pass, ~9600 feet, on the Continental Divide again.  There are oodles of wildflowers—orange, yellow, violet, purple, bright blue--and beaver dams.  It’s cool and overcast here, but not raining.  Last night we were in a desolate area—got water from Big Muddy Creek, where we camped.  Rained all night but we stayed dry.  After this card is done and we eat, we have a 20 mile coast in store.”

     

    Now we could coast downhill, and it was warm enough to enjoy the descent. 

     

                At first the descent was gentle as the road headed west.  But then, after a switchback, the road turned north and seemed to head straight ahead, downhill.  A sign said this was a 7% grade, for the next seven miles.  As we began this descent, we passed a large truck.  He was in low gear, to stay in control on the long grade, and was making only about five mph.  After we passed him, we realized how exhilarating it was to fly downhill on this beautiful day.  I sat up on my bicycle seat, let go of the handlebars, and spread my arms out wide for a few seconds.  To the right were the high mountains, while on the left was the wide expanse of the high plains of western Colorado.  We were past the Rockies!

     

                Several miles down that road we found a place to stop and appreciate the view.  We didn’t want this long coast to end.  We ate a little and enjoyed the view.  After a while it was time to go again, and we coasted again.  Soon an amazing thing happened: we passed the same truck again.  He was really going slowly.

     

                We coasted into Steamboat Springs, another picturesque tourist town.  It is famous for its skiing in the winter, and is a little sleepier in the summer.  We easily found a community swimming pool where they let us in to shower for free.  We then went into a grocery store to buy food for the night—and saw the same deaf mute we had met in Kremmling!  He was evidently traveling by car and was living better than we were!

     

                We wound up just buying a little food in Steamboat because we had seen a nice-looking restaurant, and indeed, the food was good there.  This was one of the few days when we actually bought two meals.  Almost every other day, we purchased all our food in grocery stores and cooked for ourselves—saving money.

     

                There was no place to camp in Steamboat, and besides, it was too early to stop.  As we hit US Route 40 again, heading west, ominous clouds approached from the mountains.  We really had no choice but to try to outrun the storm.  The road was slightly downhill, and the wind was at our backs.  We rode through canyons, constantly looking over our shoulders at the approaching storm.  First it seemed to be closing in from the right side, to the north of us.  Then it would recede there, only to begin closing in from the south.  The road followed the Yampa River, through Milner and then Hayden, 14 miles further down the road. In Hayden we asked where a decent camping spot might be, and we were directed to a spot two miles further on, beside the river.  It was past time to camp, and we decided to take that advice.

     

                Indeed, it looked like a nice spot as we approached it—in trees, near the river, a flat spot for the tent.  But as soon as we approached we were attacked by mosquitoes.  It was a huge swarm.  I had never put up the tent so quickly.  Soon we were safe inside the tent, the mesh door zipped shut.  We killed the several mosquitoes that had come in with us and could finally relax.  Luckily, we had eaten dinner in Steamboat, and didn’t have to cook here.  Before we slept, I checked the map.  We had covered 69 miles, and except for the mosquitoes at the end, it had been a great day.  Good weather, coasting downhill, grand vistas, successfully outracing a storm.

  • Against the Wind: a bike trip across America - Between the ridges at 8,000 ft.

    Day 47, July 22

     

                We now had Rocky Mountain National Park behind us as we pedaled south past Shadow Mountain Lake and Lake Granby.  The Colorado River flowed through these lakes and continued southwest, and we crossed it several times as we joined Route 40 and turned to the west.  We were in a valley between two major ridges of the Rockies, with another major pass up ahead.  We passed through the little town of Granby and stopped in Hot Sulphur Springs, a 25 mile ride, where we stopped for lunch and mailed our postcards from the day before.

     

    On a post card with an aerial view of Grand Lake, I marked our camping spot and wrote back to my buddies at the Outreach Clinic:  “We met Trish Manthy by accident in Boulder.  We spent a night with her family, then split for the mountains.  We climbed from 7500 feet to 9600 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park, then ran into dense fog and rain—and 38 degree temperatures at 1 PM!  So we hitched from there, and coasted 22 miles down the other side in cold, driving rain, where we camped on the lake shore where the “X” is.  Had a good sleep.  Now we’re in Hot Sulphur Springs, Colo., and it’s hot again.  We should cross Rabbit Ears Pass tomorrow.”

     

    We rode again.  The sun was shining, which was a welcome relief.  The going was slightly downhill, but into a headwind, which made it deceptively difficult.  It is hard to make sense of pedaling hard to go downhill.  We also had to remind ourselves that we were at between 7,000 and 8,000 feet—the air was thinner here than we were accustomed to.  Another 17 miles past Hot Sulphur Springs, we came to Kremmling.  It was too early to stop, and we had only made 42 miles so far.  But according to the map, no more towns were up ahead.  We went into a grocery store in Kremmling to buy food and were approached by a deaf mute.  He had a sign that he showed us, on which he had written that he was deaf and needed money.  We gave him a quarter, feeling sympathy and pity for him.  We bought our food, and postcards, and continued on, planning to find some place to camp up ahead.

     

    The road turned north, away from the Colorado river, but now along Big Muddy Creek.  As we pedaled on, it seemed we were moving more and more into the wilds, away from all civilization.  There were no houses, no power lines, only this paved road to remind us that people must pass by here.  But there was very little traffic on that road.  We felt very alone.  The mountains rose all around us, yet we were in this winding valley with a fairly flat road.

     

    It was finally time to camp.  We had made ten more miles, and 52 for the day didn’t seem quite so bad, so we stopped.  We found a spot along Big Muddy Creek to pitch the tent, out of sight of the road.  It was one of the most isolated places in which we had camped so far, but we made the most of it.  As we were preparing our campsite, I noticed that my hands were not as numb as they had been.  The quilting on the handlebar seemed to be working.  We had dinner and slept well, despite the fact that it rained most of the night.  The wind wasn’t blowing and the rainfly worked.

  • Against the Wind: a bike trip across America - 11,000 feet, 38 degrees and rain at 30 mph

    Day 46, July 21

     

                Today was the day for climbing the Rockies.  We had climbed the eastern mountains.  We had crossed the Great Plains.  We had spent a half day in the foothills, approaching Estes Park.  Our bodies were is excellent condition, and  we were acclimatized to over 5000 feet in elevation.  But Fall River Pass, 26 miles ahead, was 11,796 feet, more than twice as high as we had now climbed.  And instead of gradually acclimatizing over 46 days, we would do the next 6,000 feet in one day.

     

                The road was relatively straight ahead at first, with a gradual grade, up to the National Park entrance.  We paid 50 cents apiece to get into the park, and rode on.  The grade on Trail Ridge Road was not so steep that we had to get off and push the bikes, but we pushed on slowly in our lowest gears.  We seemed to be tiring easily, and had to stop and rest often.

     

                As the morning wore on, the traffic on the narrow road began to pick up, and many of the vehicles were RVs that seemed to take up the entire road.  They would back up behind us, trying to find a way to pass us safely.  There was barely enough room for a passenger car to pass safely and stay in the right lane, and on-coming traffic was also picking up.  Then we got to a section of switchbacks: Horseshoe, Deer Park Junction, Rainbow curve, and Many Parks curve.  The traffic would back up behind us, seem to get frustrated, finally push itself past us.  It began to feel unsafe.  We would look for places to get off the road and let everyone pass.  That wasn’t so bad for us, since we did need the rest.  But this climb was definitely not fun.

     

                As we climbed, we also noticed the weather deteriorating.  We had climbed into a cloud, and the result was fog and constant drizzle.  The temperature was dropping as we climbed, a reverse of our normal pattern: we were used to the day getting warmer as the sun rose higher in the sky.  Now, there was no sun, and as we gained elevation, the temperature was descending.  I remembered my aviation training: two degrees drop for every 1000 feet gained in altitude.  It was made much worse by the fact that we were wet from the rain.

     

                To counteract the cold and wet we had our own body heat.  As we worked, it wouldn’t seem so cold.  But when we pulled over to rest and let the RVs pass us, our own temperature would drop and we would begin to shiver.  It was slow and uncomfortable going, and we had two extra enemies: in addition to the altitude, which I expected to be a problem, we were up against heavy traffic and bad weather.  But we were making progress.

     

                Just past Many Parks Curve, we stopped again.  We had now pedaled 16 miles, over halfway to the top.  As we caught our breath, a big old International van stopped.  The door opened, and a nice young man and woman offered us a ride.  We debated briefly, thought about the elements we would have to fight for the next 12 miles, and accepted.

     

                Our bikes fit into the back of the van, and we sat in the back seat.  The van was warm, and our hosts were friendly.  The old van noisily climbed the mountain.  We were most appreciative—although I was also feeling guilty.  A part of me felt we should climb on our own power, while another part was sick and tired of altitude, cold, rain, and traffic in low gear.  The open geniality of our hosts caused most of the ambivalence to evaporate.

     

                At the top, we stopped.  We were at Fall River Pass, where we learned that 11,796 feet is 3594 meters.  There was snow on the ground, and it was cold and windy.  The rain had stopped, but it was still threatening, with very low visibility.  I imagined the view from here, if only the clouds would lift.  It seemed like we would be able to see for miles in every direction.  There was a gift shop and restaurant there, and a sign which read Alpine Visitor Center.  Our drivers were ready to continue, but we took the bikes out of the van.  We wanted to stay for a while.  We thanked the young couple and they drove on without us.

     

                At the Visitor Center we had coffee and cookies.  We were mostly dry, after spending time in that warm van.  We were at a special place and we wanted to truly experience it.  But the weather was too cold to do much outdoor exploring, and the visibility was too restricted to enjoy the view.  We decided to camp there in hopes that the weather would be different the next day.  We went looking for a spot to pitch the tent.

     

                There was no place we could find that was protected from the wind.  It was 2 PM and the thermometer on the side of the Visitor Center read 38 degrees.  Our tent and sleeping bags were still wet from the night before in Estes Park.  Back inside the Visitor Center, the clerk told us it would be below freezing tonight, and the weather tomorrow was supposed to be very much like it was today.  Camping in wet, summer-weight sleeping bags began sounding like a bad idea.

     

                The only thing to do was get off that mountain.  We knew it would be easy to coast down, although we would still be fighting traffic and weather.  We deeply regretted missing the views, but got onto our bikes for the ride down the mountain.  It would be cold, so we wore everything we had: I had a pair of long pants and a windbreaker, and Inanna was dressed similarly.  We had our hats, which were more to keep the sun off us than for warmth.  Our ears and hands were exposed.  Down the hill we went.

     

                At first, it wasn’t too bad.  The grade was gentle, mostly downhill to Milner pass at 10,758 feet.  Although a thousand feet lower than Fall River Pass up above, it was actually the Continental Divide.  All the rivers west of this spot flowed eventually into the Pacific.  This was our second major geographical marker, after the Mississippi River. 

     

                Down from Milner Pass, the grade steepened and the rain picked up.  We were coasting at 30 miles per hour, down a fairly straight road, it wasn’t much above 38 degrees, and water was coming at us from all directions.  The rain beat into our faces.  It was picked up by the front wheels and thrown up onto our legs, chests, and faces as we leaned over the handlebars.  The rear wheels picked up water and threw it onto our backs.  Our fingers became numb from the wet, wind and cold.  When we came to a set of switchbacks starting at Fairview Curve, we had trouble using our frozen fingers to operate the breaks to slow down—but without slowing down, we would plummet off the road and down the mountainside.

     

    We stopped to catch our breath.  We tried to talk about how cold we were, and I tried to suggest we go faster.  The sooner we got to the bottom of the mountain, the sooner we would have a chance to dry off and warm up.  Of course, I understood that the faster we descended, the colder we would get, as the relative wind we experienced would increase the chill factor.  But it was all moot because Inanna had to set the pace.  She was unwilling to coast any faster.  I think she was afraid of falling.  I fell into place behind her, back far enough so that the water flying off her rear wheel wasn’t splashing me in the face—although I couldn’t have been any wetter.  My fingers ached, and I am sure Inanna’s did, too—although neither of us was talking about it.  We just had to get down the mountain.

     

    Finally, after six hairpin curves, we were on another relatively straight stretch of road, and the grade became less steep.  We coasted down this road above a creek, off to our right, which we could see from time to time through the trees. We found out later that this creek was the beginnings of the mighty Colorado River, which would flow south and west from here, forming the Grand Canyon, and eventually flowing into the Gulf of California in Mexico. 

     

    This last part of the ride was just a matter of gutting it out.  The temperature was a little warmer because we were at a lower elevation.  The grade was less, so we had to spend less time squeezing the brake levers—our fingers were so cold that it hurt intensely to operate the brakes.  It reminded me of playing tennis in February in Annapolis—my left hand had been so cold that I could barely release the ball as I threw it up to serve.  But this was much worse.

     

    We covered 8 or 9 more miles in this manner before we coasted into Grand Lake at the bottom of the mountain.  This was another vacation-oriented town.  We quickly and luckily found a laundromat there, and it proved to be our salvation.  We were wet and frozen, and everything we had in our panniers was wet.  We threw everything we had, including our soaked tent and sleeping bags, into a washer and took turns cleaning ourselves up in the bathroom there.  When the first load was dry, we changed clothes and put what we had been wearing into the wash.  We slowly warmed up, our clothes were warm, clean and dry, and we felt human again.

     

    By the time we were done, it was time for dinner.  And blessedly, the rain had stopped.  We found a grocery store, and post cards.  But we were too tired to write on them.  We pedaled a little ways along the lake and found a place to camp on the shore of Grand Lake.  We were at 8367 feet, three thousand feet higher than we had been when we started that morning.  But we were down to a safer altitude, in a sheltered valley, with some civilization around us.  We had pedaled only 36 miles, plus hitched another 12.  It had been an arduous day, and we had made it.  It was a pleasure to wrap up in dry sleeping bags and we slept soundly that night.

  • Against the Wind: A bike trip across America - beginning the Rockies

    Day 45, July 19

     

                After breakfast with Trish’s family, it was time to challenge the Rockies.  We had a very nice ride north along the foothills below the mountains to Lyons, a ride of 17 miles.  From there, however, the road began to turn west and into the mountains.  As we climbed, knowing that this would be the relatively easy day compared to tomorrow, it got colder and began to drizzle, even to rain periodically.  As we pulled into Estes Park, 20 miles uphill from Lyons, we were winded.  We were experiencing our first bout of altitude fatigue.  We couldn’t get our breath for several minutes.  We were glad we had planned to stop there.  After a half-hour or so, finally we could hold our heads up and walk around the town.

     

                Estes Park was a real vacation town.  It is the gateway to the great Rocky Mountain National Park, and in fact the national park is often referred to as Estes Park.  Much of the town has a western, cowboy theme.  Shops sell leather boots and vests, cowboy hats, ski equipment.  Vacation stores advertise horseback camping trips along with the upcoming ski season.  We found a backpacking store and bought four freeze-dried meals—very light, just add water and cook.  A man begging for money approached us.  We went into a small store and bought him a sandwich for 47 cents.

     

                The day was still dreary, with alternating drizzle and rain, which didn’t encourage much sight-seeing.  We bought postcards and wrote notes home.  We found a grocery store and picked up food for the evening and next morning’s breakfast.  There was no place to camp near town, so we pedaled to the outskirts and found a rocky hillside on which to pitch the tent.  I cleared away the pebbles and the site was reasonably smooth and flat.  The rain let up while we set up camp and had dinner.

     

                That night it rained hard, with a driving wind.  Because of the wind, the rain came from the side and our small rain fly proved to be ineffective.  The water made it through our tent, dripping down the inside of the tent, creating puddles on the floor.  There wasn’t enough room in that tiny tent to get away from the puddles.  The water soaked into our sleeping bags.  Sleeping became difficult, but we did sleep for periods of time, cold and wet.  There was nothing else to do, no where to go.  Getting out of the tent would have just made us wetter.

  • Against the Wind: A bike trip across America - Boulder, CO and a little time travel

    Day 44, July 18

     

                We were both happy to leave the next morning.  We spoke little as we made our way southwest toward Boulder.  Although it would have been much more direct to ride straight west to Rocky Mountain National Park, we were drawn to Boulder.  We heard it was a great town, and we had to see it.  We pedaled south along Route 85, turned west on Route 66, and then south through Longmont toward Boulder. 

     

    We could now see the Rockies as we rode.  We wondered if we should be scared.  We knew they were much higher than anything we had crossed back east.  They certainly looked higher, and more menacing, than the gentle Appalachians.  We were also a little afraid of the altitude.  We were now at 5,000 feet, as we had been gradually climbing since we left the Mississippi.  These high plains were higher than all but the highest peaks back east.  Mt. Rogers, which we passed in Virginia, is the highest point in that state, at 5700 feet.  From my aviation training, I knew the effects of anoxia, or oxygen deprivation, at high altitudes.  But this would be different.  Although not at the highest altitudes at which I had trained, we would be exerting ourselves, climbing with laden bicycles up steep mountain roads.  Although I knew the grades wouldn’t be as steep as we had encountered in the east, these new grades would be almost endless by comparison.  Approaching those mountain passes gradually, indirectly, began making more sense.  The 50 miles from Greeley to Boulder passed easily.

     

    Boulder was everything we had been lead to believe.  It was full of people, shops, activity.  A pedestrian mall was packed with friendly people, tourists, street musicians.  We walked our bikes amid the crowds, and seemed to fit right in with our ragged T shirts, cut off jeans, old tennis shoes.  My hair was long and badly kept, while Inanna’s was always nicely brushed.

     

    We found a bike shop and went in.  I wondered if they had anything to pad my handlebars.  I had been leaning on my hands so much that my fingers were going numb.  They did have something, but it was way too expensive for our budget.  Around the corner we found a sewing shop.  They sold us quilting for a quarter that we wrapped around the handlebars.  It seemed to pad them quite nicely.   We would see how long it would last.

     

    We came to a town square and stopped for a while, watching the people pass by.  We bought milkshakes and enjoyed them while we watched.  I was worried about my hands, and the pain and numbness.  Buying 25 cents worth of cheap material seemed like a desperate thing to do.

     

    As we drank our milkshakes, I couldn’t tell Inanna about the time I hurt so much that I couldn't ride at all.  This is because it hadn’t happened yet.  It began in 1999, almost 22 years later.

     

    ***

     

    It had started out foggy and cool.  I had to wipe my glasses several times to be able to see the bicycles ahead of me.  We couldn’t see the houses back from the road, or much other scenery.  But I was riding another MS 150.  A year earlier I might have told you I would never do one again.

     

                I had ridden three of these 150-mile fund-raisers for the National Multiple Sclerosis Society.  I always asked my friends and neighbors to contribute and support my ride.  But in April of 1999 I developed a strange, intense pain in my left shoulder after a flight back from Ohio.  The pain spread quickly to my neck and right shoulder, then down my back.  Soon my neck was so stiff I couldn’t turn it left or right.  I was unable to ride in the 1999 MS 150 that May, and I wondered what else I was gong to lose.

     

    The chiropractor couldn’t help, and neither could the acupuncturist.  My GP referred me to a rheumatologist who couldn’t diagnose it, even after x-rays and a bone scan.  But he did find a medicine that controlled the pain—or perhaps most of it.  Indomethecin, it was called, and it was known to damage the stomach.  A second rheumatologist did diagnose my illness, using DNA analysis.  I had Reiter’s Syndrome, or reactive arthritis, which is an auto-immune reaction to infection.  Only a tiny population is pre-disposed to get this disease.  I had never heard of it.  But with the diagnosis came no cure.  I began taking antibiotics along with something to protect me from the Indomethecin.

     

    Although the pain and stiffness in my neck and shoulders were mostly under control now because of the medicine, the disease spread to my feet.  My heels were inflamed, as were two joints on my left foot.  I was referred to a physical therapist who put me through 2 months of thrice-weekly flexibility and strength exercises, and the feet stayed the same while my left knee became swollen to twice its normal size.  I couldn’t get off the floor without holding on to something.  I could barely walk—usually only taking steps half my normal stride.

     

    The next spring came up, and the MS 150 was out of the question.  I just wanted to survive.  I did get a new job, a much better one, and I was thankful that my new employer didn’t take a good look at how I walked—or if they did, that they didn’t hold it against me.  At work, I was definitely not my best.  I was still trying to go to the YMCA and work out every day.  It hurt to have to reduce the weights on the weight circuit.  I kept wondering which weight I would have to reduce next.

     

    Then, on the first of October 2000, came worse news.  A bleeding ulcer, caused by the medicine I had been taking.  My doctors had told me it would happen eventually—but I was hoping it wouldn’t be for a long time.  I had never had stomach trouble.  Now my rheumatologist took me off Indomethecin, and told me I could take nothing stronger than Tylenol.  I asked him if there was a diet for this arthritis pain.  He said no, there was no diet for this.   He then referred me for treatment of the bleeding ulcer

     

    My new GP put me on more medicine, this time for the ulcer.  He assured me the ulcer would be healed quickly as long as I took no more Indomethecin.  But within a couple days my neck was hurting so badly that I started to get really scared.

     

    I took my daughter Shannon to the library that Saturday afternoon so she could work on a school project.  I sat there trying to read a book on management.  My neck hurt so much I couldn’t concentrate.  I kept massaging my neck and wondering what I should do.  A voice inside me said “You don’t need to be reading about management.  You need to be reading about arthritis.”

     

    I went to the card catalogue (which is a computer now) and looked up arthritis.  A title jumped out at me.  How to Eat Away Arthritis by Lauri M. Aesoph.  I wrote down the number and went to find it.  Usually I don’t find books I need.  But there it was.  I took it and went back to the table to read.

     

    Fast for two days, it said.  Then eat nothing but apples.  When you get back to eating other foods, eliminate all chemicals (like artificial sweeteners and preservatives, caffeine and alcohol).  Eliminate all refined flour and sugar.  Eliminate milk products, fatty meats, and even nightshade vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.).  Then after the pain is resolved, trying adding a few things back in, one at a time, to learn your individual reaction to them.  She had pages of testimonials from arthritis sufferers who had experienced great results from the diet.  But it was confusing.  How do you fast?  How long do you eat apples?

     

    I can’t fast, anyway.  But we had some apples at home, so that evening I went on the apple diet.  I sat in my Lazy Boy, feeling in some sort of shock, really quite terrified, and out of desperation started eating apples.  Apples that night, apples for breakfast.  Apples for lunch.  My wife, Mary, went out and bought more apples, and I had apples for dinner.  Luckily, October is a good month for apples, and I have always found a good crunchy apple quite delicious.  Sunday night, as I went to bed, I noticed I felt quite a bit better.  The pain in my neck was at least 50% less.

     

    I started eating apples for breakfast and dinner, and salads for lunch. The pain continued to abate, although my feet were still a real problem.  And now I had another worry.  My boss wanted me to spend 8 days on the road.  I would travel to L. A., get to visit my parents in San Diego, then travel to Northern Virginia, upstate New York and South Carolina.  How would I be able to walk through all those airports?  I imagined myself riding in those carts they reserve for old people and handicapped people.  But I was feeling a little better each day.  I loaded up on apples and fresh vegetables and went to the airport.

     

    I was able to walk through L. A. International without a handicapped cart!  I spent a half day on my feet Saturday morning, then drove to my parents’ 55th wedding anniversary in San Diego.  My brothers and parents noticed me limping, but to me things were better than they had been for months.  My Mom suggested I add MSM and digestive enzymes to my regimen, which I still do.  I ate fish and salad at the big dinner, had a lot of laughs with my family, then flew back east.  I was eating from a plastic bag of celery and broccoli, refusing airline food, and feeling a little better each day.  When I finally returned the following Friday night, I was charged up about everything.

     

    I spent the rest of the month eating salads, fish, a little chicken, vegetables, and of course apples.  Things continued to improve.  Then, on Halloween night, as the Trick-or-Treaters were coming to the door, I ate some candy and two pieces of pizza.  Within an hour the pain was back in my neck.   But I felt better the next morning, and swore I wouldn’t get off the diet again.

     

    In November I went back to my GP and he told me my ulcer was resolved.  I also went back to my rheumatologist and he was amazed.  He pronounced me cured.  He said I didn’t need to set any more appointments.  I told him he should recommend this diet to his patients, and he asked for the book title and author.  I couldn’t remember it and told him I would call him back.

     

    As the weeks passed, I found myself relaxing the diet more and more.  By May, I was eating good breakfasts 100% of the time, good lunches and dinners 75%, and having bad snacks rarely—and I had not had even one diet soda in six months.  My symptoms were so reduced that it was hard to tell them from normal aches and pains of aging.

     

    But I never called my rheumatologist back.  Why?  I guess I didn’t really believe I was cured.  Two years of illness had left me in a kind of shock.  We would see if I was really cured.  But how would I know?  In January came the notice of the next MS 150, to be ridden May 19 and 20.  That’s how I would know.  If I could ride 150 miles on a bicycle in two days, I would consider myself cured.  Then I would tell him about the book, and the diet.

     

    *

     

    I was really doing it!  As we left the starting place at the Suffolk Airport, I was riding through a crowd of cyclists, getting through the start, trying to find a pace line.  Some riders were much too fast for me, some were too slow.  I weaved through the individual riders.  For several minutes, I was also an individual.  But then along came a line of 6 or 7 riders, going a little faster than me, but not too much faster.  I jumped into line at the end, and that wonderful phenomenon happened again, just like I knew it would.  My speed jumped from 15 to 20 miles per hour.  I was drafting on them, and my speed jumped 33% with only a tiny extra expenditure of energy.

     

    I rode with them for most of the first leg.  We chatted a little, but it isn’t easy to talk with a person whose back is turned to you—or to a person behind you.  We griped a little about the fog, about not being able to see the scenery.

     

    At the first rest stop, I let that pace line get away from me by resting too long.  At the rest stops, there are always lots of spring water, high carbohydrate snacks, bananas, and porta-potties.  I stretched out, loaded back up on water, and headed out.  Soon another group came up, going even faster.  I got into line.  Now I was going 21, 22 miles per hour.  But this became tiring, and after 8 miles or so I had to drop back.  Then it was time to bicycle alone.

     

    I got into another line after the next rest stop, and met Maurice.  He was a muscular African-American in a tight-fitting, matching cycling outfit.  He had a shiny bike with his name hand-lettered onto it.  He was full of spirit, passing us, dropping back, cheering us on, challenging us, making jokes, even singing religious songs.  I followed him for a little ways, and he was off again. I was to see Maurice many times over the two days, because he was so noticable—he was striking-looking, loud, good-natured, and in no hurry to finish.  He would drop back to be with people he enjoyed, chatting, waiting a long time at rest stops, then he would pass everyone again.

     

    It was not hard that morning.  There was no wind, no headwinds to struggle with.  There was no sunshine, so we didn’t overheat.  Once, three years earlier, it had gotten up to 97 degrees and I had become dehydrated.  That was the day I learned to force fluids at every rest stop.  If I ever left a stop without urinating, I was becoming dehydrated.  But today, there was little chance of that.  If anything, it might become too cold.  And there was a forecast of thunderstorms in the afternoon and evening, and perhaps rain tomorrow for the ride back.

     

    There are always 7 rest stops, with about 10 miles between them.  The middle stop is lunch.  Lunch is always the same: peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and pasta salad.  The bread wasn’t whole wheat and I am sure had preservatives in it, but I ate and sat in a comfortable outside chair with arms on it.

     

    It is called lunch because it is halfway to the destination—but it usually comes at about 9:30 or 10 AM, because we start at 7 AM and have had breakfast at home an hour or more before that.  We are happy to sit and eat.  Then we stretch and get back on those bicycle seats.

     

    After lunch the griping begins in earnest.  The most common gripe is about our sore fannies.  Some people have sore hands, numb hands, or numb-nuts.  Some are getting just plain winded.  For me, however, there was also the problem with my back and neck.  To ride a road bike you have to get into an aerodynamic position, hands down low on the “drops” (the lower part of the handlebars), while the seat is raised to allow for a full leg extension for power.  My lower back and neck have always bothered me in that position.  But on recent practice rides it was worse than ever.  I found I could stretch out my neck the opposite way by forcing my chin to my chest and holding it there.  That had the disadvantage of not letting me see the road ahead of me.  But I could give everything a good look first and it would work.  The back was a tougher nut to crack.  I had gone to a chiropractor to fix the back, and had taken a preventive dose of 800 mg of ibuprophen before the ride started.  Now I found that when I dropped down into the full aerodynamic position, the pain returned.  But with my hands on the top part of the handlebars, the pain stayed away.  For a while.

     

    As the day wore on, the faster riders were well past me, and the slower ones were well back.  That’s when I rode alone, or with one other person.  I met several nice people to chat with—a Navy radioman from Pennsylvania, a man named Jim who worked for an insurance company, a Baptist youth minister from Richmond named Mark.  Sometimes we would ride side by side so we could talk.  There was no use in hurrying, now.  We were tired, and no more pace lines would be passing us that we could perhaps join.

     

    The sun did come out that afternoon, and it was a very nice day.  Finally it was hot enough to remind us we were working.  The sweat was dripping down my face onto my glasses.  I cleaned them at a rest stop and noticed that the sun now